1996 Barbaresco Santo Stefano Riserva di Neive
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Tasting notes
Giacosa’s 1996 Barbaresco Santo Stefano is a picture-perfect example of the year. Still austere and somewhat compact, I imagine the 1996 will never be an especially forthcoming wine. Even so, the 1996 possesses a super-classic profile of sweet red cherry, pomegranate and rose petal, with a kick of white pepper that adds aromatic intrigue and lift. Readers who appreciate the clenched, old school style typical of this vintage will find plenty of those qualities here. Longevity will be determined by the quality of the corks and storage, as the wine itself is pretty much eternal. As it often does, the 1996 Santo Stefano evokes memories of Giacosa’s brilliant 1970s and 1980s wines.
Critic scores
Robert Parker
Robert Parker
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We started with a flight of Barbareschi from the Santo Stefano vineyard in Neive. This is the one single-vineyard wine Giacosa makes from purchased fruit. Santo Stefano faces due south and sits at about 250 meters above sea level. The wines are usually quite rich within the context of Barbaresco. I also adored the 1996 for its cool, inward personality and bright fruit. The 1996 certainly looks like a modern-day version of the great wines Giacosa made during the 1970s and 1980s.
The newly-released 1996 Barbaresco Santo Stefano is spectacular. The tight, youthful 1996 requires 3-4 more years of bottle age. The color is a dark ruby/garnet. The bouquet is just beginning to open, revealing scents of dried Provencal herbs, cherry liqueur, tobacco, spice box, and white truffles. In the mouth, the wine is stunningly concentrated, extremely full-bodied, with high tannin, and fabulously pure, sweet, cherry cough syrup-like, licorice, smoke, and dried herb flavors. The finish lasts for over 45 seconds although this 1996 is still young and tight. It should enjoy a glorious evolution. Anticipated maturity: 2006-2030. Importer: A Leonardo Locascio Selection, Winebow, Hohokus, NJ; tel. (201) 445-0620
The newly-released 1996 Barbaresco Santo Stefano is spectacular. The tight, youthful 1996 requires 3-4 more years of bottle age. The color is a dark ruby/garnet. The bouquet is just beginning to open, revealing scents of dried Provencal herbs, cherry liqueur, tobacco, spice box, and white truffles. In the mouth, the wine is stunningly concentrated, extremely full-bodied, with high tannin, and fabulously pure, sweet, cherry cough syrup-like, licorice, smoke, and dried herb flavors. The finish lasts for over 45 seconds although this 1996 is still young and tight. It should enjoy a glorious evolution. Anticipated maturity: 2006-2030. Aug 2000, www.robertparker.com
About the producer
Bruno Giacosa – now run by daughter Bruna – is a cult Nebbiolo producer, that has consistently made some of the best single-vineyard Barbaresco and Barolo from the 1960s onwards. The“red-label” Riservas are some of the finest and most collectable wines in Italy.