2018 Pommard Les Epenots

70% of the vineyard is 110 years old and the rest 45 years old. 60% whole bunch. 20–25% new oak. Rossignol is taking mass selection from the old vines – which he had been thinking of pulling up when he took the parcel on in 2013 – when he replants. Rather than pulling them up he changed the posts and nurtured the vineyard. Different-sized berries on the bunch seem to bring complexity – he doesn’t know if it is vine age or the plant material. He thinks this wine sums up his wines. Deep, rich-fruited. Super-ripe and intense and concentrated but not overripe. Chewy, compact but fine-grained, impressive concentration here but it is fruit not tannins. Tannins are dense, not astringent, firm grip, confident wine with depth and complexity. Big and long. Embryonic and incipient finesse. As you continue tasting the tannins become more fine, more elegant. A wine that gets more elegant as you continue to taste rather than the tannins building. Chalky finesse on the finish. (JH)