2020 Corton Charlemagne

While Hugues Pavelot worries that Chardonnay is at risk of losing its Burgundian identity in a warming climate – the distinct mineral-flecked palate and acid backbone of this Corton-Charlemagne provides this wine with a strong sense of place. The fruit plays second fiddle here, as the structure, mineral tones and seemingly endless depth dominate. The aromas of cool, wet stone, with a touch of citrus peel, are pure and restrained. The wine is super fresh, vibrant and mouth-watering, with a fantastic acid backbone running right down the middle of the palate. The fruit is very pure, the yellow apple fruit tones are super clean and crunchy with saline notes adding complexity. The structure just builds and builds in the mouth with excellent vibration and tautness. Fantastic.