2017 Hermitage Les Rocoules

Vivid straw-yellow. A highly perfumed, powerful bouquet evokes ripe pear, peach nectar, anise, succulent flowers and saffron, while a smoky mineral note builds steadily in the glass. Sappy, seamless and finely detailed on the palate, offering densely packed orchard and pit fruit and honeysuckle flavors that are lifted and braced by a spine of dusty minerality and a hint of orange zest. Shows superb tenacity on the mineral-driven finish, leaving resonating floral and ripe orchard fruit notes behind.

Is this the greatest Les Rocoules I've ever tasted? The 2017 Hermitage Blanc Les Rocoules shows more structure than the 2018, informed by greater freshness and crushed stone nuances. It's full-bodied, loaded with power and richness and possesses layers of ripe fruit, yet it remains cool and refreshing on the long, long finish. When confronted with a wine like this, words tend to fail to convey the emotion and sensations of the moment—you have to try it for yourself.

90% Marsanne, 10% Roussanne. Cask sample. Clay soil. Richer and more honeyed than their Hermitage blend. Extraordinary floral character – honeysuckle, jasmine. And excellent oak spice too. Long, furry structure. Bewitching, saline, mealy, yeasty. So savoury! (RH)