2019 Tokaji Dry Furmint Mandolas
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Tasting notes
Full embossed bottle 1,405 g. Made by Tempos Vega Sicilia's Hungarian winery. 1 00% Furmint on volcanic soils. Winemaker Gonzalo Iturriaga reports that they use Hungarian oak but can’t overdo it. It’s important to pick ripe fruit, he says, ‘otherwise the acid can kill you’. Tank-fermented mainly – maybe some barrel. Racked into 350- and 500-litre barrels (although they are moving to big foudres) and tank to keep freshness and elegance. One-third goes through malo. Stirring depends on the vintage. Released in 2021. Heady and actually the fruit aroma is at peak already. The 2020 is fresher. Full-bodied but with appley acidity. You might be able to find a clever food match for this but I wouldn't recommend it as a cellar candidate. (JR)
Critic scores
Tamlyn Currin, jancisrobinson.com
Jancis Robinson MW
More reviews and scores
Full bottle 1,391 g. From the Tokaj property belonging to Vega Sicilia. The nose, at first: herbs pressed into smoky peaches soused in lemon. Structure: precise, cut edges, pure, long. Then it started to open in the glass, golden-peach ripeness amplified on the nose and palate, a touch of aged ambergris – woody sweetness. Honeysuckle florals and sharp lemon wax. Long, horizontal linearity, focused on the far side of the finish. Impressive, even at this very young age. Brine, lime zest, crisp as starched linen. Chiselled elegance. This has several years ahead of it. (TC)