2005 Barolo Risera Granbussia
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Tasting notes
The 2005 Barolo Riserva Granbussia represents a selection of fruit from the oldest vines. This is an elegant and pure expression of Nebbiolo that shows a dark ruby hue and deeply finessed aromas of wild berry, wet earth, iron, black truffle and some sweet baking spice. This is an elegant and synthetic interpretation of the greater Bussia cru that extends down the crest of a long hill from Monteforte d'Alba to Barolo. The finish is elegant, silky and fine. Only 2,900 bottles were made.
Critic scores
Antonio Galloni, Vinous
Walter Speller, jancisrobinson.com
More reviews and scores
Mid ruby with orange rim. Cool red fruit and hints of oak. A pretty whole. Sweet, fragrant fruit on the palate, which doesn't last perhaps extremely long, but it is certainly a pretty wine. The finish seems just a little dry. (WS)
The 2005 Barolo Riserva Granbussia is shaping up to be one of the great wines of the vintage. The bouquet is classic Barolo to the core. Pure rose petals, tar, licorice, orange peel and leather. The 2005 is a wine of contrasts. It is at once powerful yet delicate, rich yet weightless. In other words, it captures all of the elements that make Nebbiolo such a fascinating grape. Both bottles I tasted were spectacular. Within the context of Granbussia, the 2005 isn't likely to be one of the longer-lived vintages, but it is stunning right now.
(the first vintage of Gran Bussia made with what Giacomo Conterno described as the estate's "new philosophy" on more serious green harvesting and longer skin contact; aged for four years in two 25-hectoliter barrels and slated to be released in 2012 with the 2008 crus): Medium red. Perfumed, high-toned aromas of redcurrant, licorice, marzipan, graphite, menthol and fresh herbs. Suave and vibrant on entry, leaner than the 2007 Cicala that preceded it in my tasting but showing superb cut and energy. Compellingly dense and silky in the middle, with a terrific light touch and a strong savory quality to its red fruit, graphite and menthol flavors. An essence of Barolo in its restrained sweetness, outstanding intensity and tactile, juicy finish. According to Giacomo Conterno, Gran Bussia is from fruit picked at the very beginning of the harvest, 70% Romirasco old vines and 15% each Cicala and Colonello. Incidentally, there's no 2007 Romirasco or Gran Bussia owing to hail.