2008 Zinfandel Hayne Vineyard

Full red-ruby. Brooding nose hints at chocolate and spices; rather syrah-like today. Then chewy, chocolatey and concentrated but a bit youthfully clenched, hinting at fresher blackberry and violet qualities as it opens in the glass. A rather clenched version of Hayne, finishing with big, broad, youthfully tough tannins. Did I catch this at an awkward stage?

A classic Zinfandel emerges from a vineyard in St. Helena, the 2008 Zinfandel Hayne Vineyard. As always, the 2008 is a prodigious effort. Dramatically better than the 2007, 2006, or 2005, it reveals a dense purple color along with an extraordinary bouquet of pure black raspberries, creme de cassis, licorice, roasted herbs, and pepper. Dense, with massive body and flavor concentration yet silky tannin and well-integrated spice, acidity, and alcohol, this wine should drink well for 10-12 years. As I have said many times, the most underrated varietal (especially if you are a connoisseur or collector wanting to age California wines for 10-20 years) is Petite Sirah, which ages just as well as the finest Cabernet Sauvignons. In fact, it ages more slowly, and in 2009, well-cellared examples from the late 1960s and early 1970s continue to be remarkable wines. All of the following wines are noteworthy, and I am sure they will still be drinking beautifully in 25, 35, perhaps even 40 or more years. They need plenty of time to age, and because they have never been fashionable, their prices tend to be realistic. That said, you have to be a masochist to drink these wines young as they are massive, inky/blue/black, super-concentrated offerings that need at least 8-10 years of bottle age. Tel. (707) 963-0940; Fax (707) 963-8683