2010 Cabernet Sauvignon Napa Valley

Good ruby-red; not as lucid as some. Musky scents of cherry, currant, black raspberry, burning cinders, mocha, tobacco, minerals and underbrush; there's something distinctly Graves-y about this. Enters the mouth silky, seamless and sweet, then turns quite firm and more savory but also a bit exotic in the middle palate, displaying sexy floral lift and good penetration to its red and darker fruit and tobacco and brown spice flavors. Boasts lovely harmonious acidity for such a ripe wine but savory and soil-driven more than sweet. This Cabernet has the mineral spine and substantial dusty tannins to continue for another 15 years. A superb 2010 in an Old World style, and a very pure expression of its distinctive Conn Valley site--even if this sample's tannins are not quite as smooth as those in the 2010 I tasted three years ago in my extensive vertical tasting at Seavey Vineyard.

(15.2% alcohol; includes 10% Petit Verdot): Full ruby-red. Wonderfully scented, subtle perfume of cassis, dark raspberry, minerals and violet face powder are complemented by musky notes of tobacco and mocha. Utterly smooth on entry, then silky and fine-grained in the middle, with sweet berry fruit enlivened by subtle spiciness and complicated by a saline quality. This remarkably classy, pliant wine is perfectly ripe and and nobly dry in an Old World way. The long, resounding finish features utterly suave tannins and a compelling light touch. The estate sold off a lot of less-ripe material in 2010, noted winemaker Jim Duane, and this wine was aged in just 30% new oak. Yet another great example from this superb vintage.

Aromas of blackberries with dried-mushroom and walnut undertones. Medium to full body, fine and silky tannins and a fresh and earthy finish. I like the decadent character to this.