2005 Erdener Treppchen Auslese (2 star) GrK

Molitor’s 2005 Erdener Treppchen Riesling Auslese*** offers from cask a nose dominated by a vintage-typical expression of Treppchen: sassafras and brown spices. An opulent, mouth-filling middle ranges in flavor from high toned citrus oil and herbal essences through nut cream, to veritably chocolaty richness – not forgetting a decidedly wet stone expression of slate. The opulent, sweetly nutty and herbal, pungently spicy and smoky, distinctively mineral finish offers formidable breadth and length. It might seem strange that a wine labeled “Auslese three star” would appear this early in Molitor’s line-up. But the stars – three of which indicates “hochfeinste”Auslese and a wine of exceptional must weight – are unrelated to finished dryness, and this dry-tasting wine has only 15 grams of residual sugar. Wait a minute ... judging by the must weight, that means nearly 14% finished alcohol. So where’s the heat? Buffered by sheer extract, one may presume. Also recommended: 2005 Riesling trocken (unknown; 85), 2005 Graacher Domprobst Riesling Kabinett trocken (unavailable; 86+?), 2005 Wehlener Klosterberg Riesling Spatlese feinherb (unknown; 84-86), 2005 Zeltinger Himmelreich Riesling Auslese*** feinherb (unknown; 85-87). Importer: Schmitt Sohne, Millersville, MD; tel. (410) 729-4083