1971 Taylor's Very Old Single Harvest

Tasted from one of their clever little test-tube-like bottles. This is part of Taylor's series of single-harvest ports released 50 years after the harvest, the eighth in the series. They write this about the harvest: 'The winter preceding the 1971 harvest was slightly drier than average with around 13 inches of rain recorded at Pinhão. Spring and early summer were relatively cool and poor berry set was reported in some areas resulting in reduced yields. August was a dry month but, unusually for the Douro Valley, there were no prolonged periods of intense heat. As a result the grapes ripened slowly and gradually and by the normal harvest time in mid-September the crop was still far from mature. The vintage finally began on the 15th October, the latest starting date since 1909. As dry conditions had continued throughout September the grapes were generally in good condition. Winemakers’ notes report that the musts were not as intense and deeply coloured as usual but displayed attractive aromas and excellent acidity. They correctly predicted that this would not be a Vintage year but a harvest producing supple, elegant wines more suited for long term ageing in cask.' Light to mid browny tawny colour. Doesn't have the same bitter-sweet notes of the two Dalva ports just tasted (1950 and 1934), more savoury and subdued at first. In fact it is almost more like a madeira on the nose, with definite notes of old, polished wood and walnuts but also some burnt toffee. There's also something very slightly spicy, with mocha and piercing orange-pith freshness on the palate. Impressive freshness to balance and undermine the sweetness. Very long and unexpectedly mouth-watering on the finish. (JH)