2018 Rausch Spatlese 11 19
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Tasting notes
If an argument can be – and often is – made that Zilliken Kabinetts would more appropriately be labeled “Spätlese,” then an even better case could be made that this Spätlese should be labeled Auslese, and by no means just on account of its sweetness or its having been rendered from musts well in excess of 100 degrees Oechsle. The effusive nose is dominated by mango, guava and pineapple, and these are joined by quince jelly on a glycerol-slicked palate. The long, soothing finish manages to just avoid turning outright sticky, thanks in part to a faint pineapple core tang but quite possibly also due to this having been one of those bottlings for which the Zillikens employed some of their new and nearly-new <em>fuders</em>. (Concerning this estate’s ongoing renewal of casks, consult the introduction to my coverage of their 2015s.)
Critic scores
Jancis Robinson MW
James Suckling
More reviews and scores
Plenty of cooked apples and pears here, as well as some baked quince. Quite sweet and full-bodied on the palate,but turns slightly caramelized on the finish. Drink now.
Fermented to 8.5% instead of just 8% alcohol like the regular Spätlese, the 2018 Rausch Spätlese –Versteigerung– (AP #7) is very clear, fine and bright on the nose that offers passion fruit and perfectly ripe stone fruit aromas with the spiciness of peach skins. Lush and crystalline, this is an excitingly clear and finessed Spätlese with the precision of a laser beam. The finish is stimulatingly salty and piquant and even terroir-driven. A fantastic wine in style and quality. This is the most spectacular Spätlese I have ever tasted. Picked at Beerenauslese level (119° Oechsle) and bottled with 116 grams per liter of residual sugar but with clarity, finesse and freshness, this is an outstanding Spätlese and virtually the perfection of this category. Un grand applause! Tasted in June 2019. The wine will be auctioned in September this year.
A deliberate contrast to the Kabinett, with 105 Oechsle. Massively big, bold expression of a big, bold vintage. Yet there is good acidity too. Though I expect this beauty to be ready sooner than their Spätlesen usually are. Candied grapefruit-peel sensation. (JR)