2017 Tignanello

Last year I wrote that the 2017 Tignanello would drink well early. Unless that happens within the next two years or so, that will not turn out to be the case. Right after bottling, the 2017 was so generous, but since then it has really gone into a shell. That won't be an issue over time, but today Tignanello, which so often is such a showy in its youth, is incredibly tight. Bright red berry fruit, mint, chalk and lifted floral notes give the 2017 a good bit of energy. There is a purity to the Sangiovese that works so well with the wine's grippy tannins, but patience is key.

Majority Sangiovese (usually around 80%) plus Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc. By comparison with the 2016, this is clearly a less well-endowed vintage. The tannins seem firmer and more grainy, although perhaps that is just a function of its youth. There's a bitterness on the finish which seems a bit awkward too, although the fruit power is good. Is this just in an awkward phase? It's certainly got some growing up to do. The score errs on the side of caution. (RH)

The Marchesi Antinori 2017 Tignanello (made with Sangiovese and smaller parts Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc) is a dark, exuberant and inviting wine. I tasted my sample after a double decanting and was pleased by the profound nature of the wine and the immediate openness of the aromas. There is a symphony of dark fruit with black cherry, plum, spice and sweet tobacco. I am particularly attracted by a distant hint of medicinal or menthol herb that I also discovered in other wines with fruit from the Tignanello estate in 2017. There's a drying mineral note of crushed chalk as well. The heat and dryness of the vintage has added to the aromatic intensity of the wine (yields were reduced by a third), but the mouthfeel is carefully crafted to maintain its softness and smoothness. Fruit comes from a 57-hectare section of the Tenuta Tignanello from a vineyard that is located 390 meters above sea level with Alberese limestone rock and soils of marine origin. The wine is fermented in conical oak tanks and is aged up to 16 months in a combination of mostly French and some Hungarian oak, both new and neutral. Some 300,000 bottles were released in April 2020 after one year of bottle age.