2017 Ayler Kupp Spatlese Fass 23

This auctioned bottling reflects, in Lauer’s words, “overripe but healthy fruit,” yet there is also a Sauvignon-like aspect to the combination of sweet-sour gooseberry preserve, cassis , passion fruit, honeydew melon and grapefruit. The palate is glossy and subtly oily but also tangy, and a suggestion of mango creeps into the lusciously lingering, unabashedly sweet finish. This really needs time to reconcile with its residual sugar.