2016 Meursault Les Charmes

(from vines averaging 40 years of age, according to Jean-Baptiste Bouzereau): Healthy pale yellow. Complex, inviting nose displays classic citrus and hazelnut aromas complicated by wild herbs. Nicely concentrated, spicy wine with an attractive creaminess of texture and a good balance of sweet and salty elements. Bouzereau did some batonnage for some of his wines in 2016 but less here, as he felt that this wine was "already rich and large enough" and possessed sound acidity. But he added that his sugar fermentations normally extend into December, so that the fine lees remain in suspension. He also normally picks Charmes "even before Genevrières, to keep its salinity." Still, there's something in this rich, round wine that suggests it will evolve relatively quickly.

The 2016 Meursault 1er Cru Les Charmes-Dessus was not touched by the frost (confusingly unlike Les Charmes-Dessous); however, I still found the nose more straightforward than previous vintages such as the 2015 and 2014. The palate is better with good weight in the mouth and sufficient acidity to lend tension, though I would like more mineralité and terroir expression to evolve with bottle age. Not bad, but there are other 2016s from the domaine that I prefer this year.

Bright light-medium yellow. Very fruit-driven aromas of pear, white peach and lemon accented by anise. The palate conveys a slight creaminess of texture but also excellent savory intensity and floral lift (Bouzereau notes that this fruit can get very ripe if he picks it too late). I like this wine's combination of texture, penetrating acidity and supporting minerality. Dusts the palate and spreads out on the persistent finish. This very tasty premier cru should give pleasure early and age well.