2015 Wehlener Sonnenuhr Kabinett 09-16
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Tasting notes
Apple and quince are coolingly laced with mint and wintergreen (decidedly reminiscent of the corresponding Bernkasteler) but also, quite unexpectedly, joined by banana, mango and muskmelon for an unusually exotic expression of Wehlener Sonnenuhr Kabinett that is as luscious in the mouth as it is heady on the nose. Lily and heliotrope contribute to the wine’s head-turning aromatic intensity and their inner-mouth perfume to the allure of a subtly creamy palate. For all of its unusually advanced sense of ripeness for a Kabinett, this projects remarkable delicacy and a focused sense of stone, fruit and floral interface in its lingering finish. (The Prüms are fond of observing that their Wehlener Sonnenuhr is usually slower to show itself than others of their wines, but that certainly isn’t the case with this 2015.)
Critic scores
Mosel Fine Wines
Stephan Reinhardt, Wine Advocate
More reviews and scores
The 2015 Wehlener Sonnenuhr Kabinett is clear, intense and smoky on the nose, with ripe white and yellow-fleshed stone fruit and floral aromas. Intense and well structured, with a lovely mineral grip and lingering piquancy, this is a medium-bodied, mouth-filling and lush Riesling. It has a long and salty, perfectly structured finish. This is a classic from JJ Prüm that is both light and complex at the same time.
Very reductive on the nose (veering towards a city-drains smell). Relatively severe for a Kabinett, the sweetness not quite integrated into the whole as yet. Bay leaves in lemon juice. Spiny and bony and chewy and elbows and knees. (TC)
This little jewel of a Kabinett immediately captures one’s attention as elegant scents of white flowers, herbs, smoke and cassis emerge from the glass. The wine is beautifully elegant and fresh as mint, herbs, white flowers and more fruits hit the palate. The wine remains stunningly precise right into the incredibly long, clean and juicy finish. The sense of focus which runs through the whole wine is simply mind-boggling as it adds intensity and precision to already airy flavors. What an absolute beauty made in a true Kabinett style! Oct 2016, www.moselfinewines.com, Drink: 2025-2040+
About the producer
Joh. Jos. Prüm is the benchmark estate of the Middle Mosel, renowned for Rieslings of exceptional delicacy, precision, and longevity. From the legendary slopes of Wehlener Sonnenuhr to Graacher Himmelreich, their wines capture a singular balance of lightness, tension and mineral purity.