2004 Barolo Rupestris

The 2004 Barolo Otin Fiorin Piè Rupestris-Nebioli is nearly as compelling as the 2008. Layered and totally sensual from the outset, the 2004 is a terrific example of the year. Perfumed aromatics meld into sweet red cherry, tobacco, licorice and spice. Firm tannins give the Rupestris a bit more austerity than is common in this vintage, but that also ensures the wine will drink well for years to come. So many 2004s are accessible, but the Rupestris is a Barolo I would choose to cellar for at least a few years. I have had some variability with Cappellano’s 2004s. This is an especially fine bottle.

The 2004 Barolo Piè Rupestris - Nebbiolo is terrific. In fact, 2004 is a rare vintage in which I prefer the Rupestris over the Piè Franco-Michet. Perfumed and almost primary in its intense fruit, the 2004 is sill very young. Sweet tobacco, herbs, dried cherries and cedar give the 2004 a super-classic profile. There is a bit of old chest drawer funk that needs a good bit of time to blow off, so readers should plan on opening the 2004 well in advance.

Sadly, both 2004 Cappellano Barolos I opened for this tasting were oxidized, likely the result of poor handling at some point along the line. Fill levels on both bottles were at the top of the shoulder, but the labels, corks and capsules showed no signs of seepage or other damage, so it is hard to pinpoint the problem further. These wines are made in such small quantities that they are nearly impossible to find, so it is especially disappointing to see bottles that have been damaged. I will report back as soon as I have a chance to taste representative examples.