2016 Volnay Clos des Ducs
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Tasting notes
The 2016 Volnay Clos du Château des Ducs 1er Cru is more transparent and displays less fruit intensity than its peers, although I would prefer more presence for a Volnay at this early stage. The palate is medium-bodied with fine-grain tannin and very good acidity. Pure and refined with tart red fruit on the finish just seem so vivacious and full of joie-de-vivre . More approachable than its peers, perhaps this is a case of a Volnay demonstrating that sometimes less can be more. Tasted blind at the 2016 Burgfest tasting in Burgundy.
Critic scores
Jancis Robinson MW
Neal Martin
More reviews and scores
(28 hectoliters per hectare, as the wall around these vines provided some protection from the frost; the grapes were destemmed by hand, a job that required 25 hours of human labor, according to Frédéric Lafarge, who added that this step resulted in "a synergy between man and nature"): Bright medium red. Very pure, perfumed scents of red and dark fruits and minerals. The densest and sweetness of these Volnays, conveying a dusty impression of extract and terrific inner-palate energy. The wine's intense red fruit and spice flavors blow by the fine-grained tannins on the very long finish. A compellingly pure, deep Volnay with captivating rising perfume.
The 2016 Volnay 1er Cru Clos du Château des Ducs was destemmed by hand this year, with five people taking five hours to complete the entire vineyard. Apparently Frederic’s great-grandfather did the same in the late 1920s before there were destemming machines. It has an ethereal, brilliantly defined bouquet with disarming pure red berry fruit that, for want of a better expression, are just pure pinoté. The palate is defined by exceptionally fine tannins, real tension, slightly chalky toward the second half with laser-like precision. This will be one of the wines of the vintage—it is that good.