2015 Volnay Caillerets
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Tasting notes
(entirely destemmed): Healthy medium-deep red. Knockout soil-inflected aromas of red cherry, raspberry, dried flowers, spices and underbrush. Wonderfully refined and energetic on the palate, with its fresh, sharply delineated red fruit and earth flavors boasting terrific inner-mouth tension and class--not to mention delicacy--for the vintage. Not as thick as some of these '16s, this still-tight beauty opens out on the back end like a peacock's tail, leaving the salivary glands humming. "Ten years will be just the beginning of the game" for this wine, offered Rossignol.
Critic scores
Stephen Tanzer, Vinous
Stephen Tanzer, Vinous
More reviews and scores
The 2015 Volnay 1er Cru Caillerets is a blend of 40- and 80-year-old vineyards and was completely de-stemmed this year; it has an opulent and extravagant bouquet with marmalade and orange sorbet notes suffusing the kirsch, cassis and black cherry scents. I would prefer to see a little more restraint here. The palate is medium-bodied with succulent ripe red fruit, touches of dark chocolate and savory notes developing towards the second half that will need a couple of years to fully absorb the 30% new oak. I would just like to feel the terroir more here.
(100% destemmed; recently racked): Bright full red. Attractive mineral lift to the aromas of black raspberry and black cherry. Quite tight and sharply delineated, with its very ripe black fruit flavors leavened by menthol and stone and complicated by hints of earth, leather and chocolate. Finishes with substantial ripe tannins. (I will withhold judgment on the Volnay Clos des Angles, which Rossignol described as his roundest Volnay in 2015. It had also been racked a week before my visit but was in an oxidative phase when I tasted it.)