2010 Pinot Noir Lia's Vineyard

This has a sensually seductive and intriguing decade or more ahead of it. Jay Somers’ hundred cases of 2010 Pinot Noir Lia’s Vineyard exhibits a blue fruited richness and tinges of bay laurel and smoky black tea reminiscent of the wine he calls “its counterpart,” the Abby Ridge. But here a hauntingly bittersweet, gentian-like floral perfume emerges, and the bitter dark chocolate noted in some of the other J. Christopher 2010s wells-up in the finish to reinforce the impression of richness. Powder-fine tannins, glycerol-rich slickness, and an admirable retention of primary berry juiciness inform this expansive yet shapely beauty, with hints of marzipan and brown spice adding allure to a sustained finish. Following international internships and five years with John Paul at Cameron, reflective and experimental-minded Jay Somers founded J. Christopher wines in 1996 with conviction in the principles of biodynamic farming and what he calls “Old World” stylistic sensibility. Meeting a deep-pocketed, multi-talented soul mate and commercial partner in Ernst Loosen of the eponymous Mosel estate, Somers now finds himself in the enviable position of presiding over a newly-constructed and superbly-equipped winery surrounded by a newly-planted former pasture dubbed Appassionata Vineyard (mixed volcanic and sedimentary) whose aspect and proximity to some of Newberg’s best sites (including David Adelsheim’s founding vineyard, not to mention the cluster a mile west on Calkins Lane) can’t help but fire even a jaded wine lover’s imagination; and the wines – given their vibrant style and on the whole extremely reasonable prices – can’t help but stimulate an appetite of more than one sort. Among many unique aspects of J. Christopher is a passion and ambition for Sauvignon Blanc, which Somers and Loosen have backed-up by planting three acres of their home vineyard’s 20 acres with that cepage, the rest being Pinot Noir including – unsurprisingly, given Loosen’s international experience and Somers’ at Cameron – highly, dare I say “colorfully,” diverse vine material including heirloom selections of both Californian and Oregonian origin. Pinot is destemmed – though future deviations from that norm are envisioned – and ferments spontaneously “which at our ambient temperatures,” notes Somers, “can take anywhere from 5-10 days.” Extraction is solely via punch-downs and the wine is pressed within a couple of days of reaching dryness; then minimally settled before going to barrel, 25% new. In the newly-dug and exceedingly cold caves, malo is taking place on a Burgundian schedule; in fact, had only recently started when I visited in early June. On occasion (such as in 2009, but not 2010) acid will be added. Alcohol is naturally around 13% on the 2010s and “even in 2009,” Somers claims that without adjusting most lots “we managed to keep everything under 14%, which was astonishing.” I tasted all of the 2010 Pinots here (save for the generic) as definitive blends shortly ahead of bottling. Tel. (503) 554-9572