2014 Haut Brisson La Reserve

The 2014 Haut-Brisson La Réserve is darker, richer and more concentrated than the estate's entry level offering, but not necessarily more complex. This fruit saw a longer cold soak, more time on the skins and more new oak, all of which contribute to the wine's distinctly flashy, voluptuous personality. Mocha, spices, black cherry and plum notes abound, but today the Réserve comes across as a bit heavy and overdone. It will be interesting to see if the elements come together a bit more fully over time. In a nutshell, the Réserve is more power than finesse. The blend 98% Merlot and 2% Cabernet Franc. Tasted two times.

The Château Haut-Brisson Réserve 2014 has a more backward nose than the regular cuvée, the oak here neatly embroidered into the black and red fruit. The palate is medium-bodied with a soy-tinged entry, grainy tannin and a slightly disjointed finish that should meld together during its élevage. However, perverse as it sounds, I find the regular bottling bestowed with more freshness and poise.