2004 Wehlener Sonnenuhr Riesling Herztrauben Spatlese

The history of Prum is one of the longest in Europe, stretching back over 800 years. At the turn of the 20th century, the ownership was split between all of Prums children. JJ and SA Prum were the only two to continue winemaking, the others selling their plots. Whilst JJ focussed on export, SA focussed on the domestic market, hence why they are fairly unknown outside Germany. Having tried many of JJ’s wines, I can attest that these are just as good. SA is the ‘original’ family line, still owning the middle part of Wehlener Sonnenuhr, or Sun Dial vineyard, on the incredibly steep slopes of the Mosel Valley. Without question the very best plot available. When you consider how this Spatlese is produced, the price is almost too good to be true. Whilst picking the bunches which go on to make Kabinett, four grapes are left on the vine from the heart of the bunch. For two weeks , all of the vines efforts go in to ripening these lonely four, super-concentrating every aspect, reaching huge levels of concentration. They are then picked by hand, sorted to ensure any which are not perfect are discarded, then fermented slowly and carefully. This extreme level of winemaking amounted to just 4000 bottles being produced, the majority of which are now long-sold. The nose is full of apricot, white peach, hints of lemon rind and a rich, creamy character, all underlined by hints of petrol. The palate is beautiful – the sweetness perfectly balanced by the concentrated, refreshing acidity. Again, stone fruits dominate, with lemon, lime and underlying minerality; the creamy character lingering on the long, complex finish. Only just getting going – a long life ahead.