2012 Volnay Caillerets

Tasted blind at the annual "Burgfest" tasting in Beaune. Maybe I underestimated the 2012 Volnay 1er Cru Caillerets Ancienne Cuvee Carnot from Bouchard Père & Fils? Certainly seems so, judging by this gorgeous example. Here, it has a conservative and tightly-controlled bouquet with a touch of soy mixed in with the red berry fruit that does not quite deliver the harmony and poise of its peers. The palate is medium-bodied and bitter on the entry. There is plenty of sour cherry and juniper berry here, edgy and tensile, while the finish is focused and building on that tension to offer great drinkability. On its own like this, it feels severe, but I can imagine it complementing a dinner with great style.

Dark red. Lovely perfume combines cherry, licorice, floral oils, fresh herbs, clove and mint. Juicy, spicy and sharply delineated but not particularly fleshy or sweet; penetrating and complex but the wine's fruit is kept under wraps by a medicinal austerity today. Finishes wth substantial talc-like tannins and a hint of underbrush. Needs time.

Slight woody character at first, but then loads of succulent cherry fruit and delicious herbal complexity. Really lovely, this – and absolutely spot on for Volnay – reverberates out of the glass. Very satisfying. (RH)