2012 Vosne Romanee Les Suchots

Full medium red. The aromas and flavors of black raspberry, coffee and tropical dark chocolate show an almost liqueur-like ripeness. Rich, layered and deep, showing near-grand cru density, solidity and lift. And yet not at all overly sweet. Outstanding Suchots, finishing with superb length and considerable power. (I recently enjoyed a bottle of the estate's 1988 Suchots and it was in glorious condition and at its peak.)

Much darker colour than the majority of wines and a darker, more savoury aroma – light and spicy. Dry, chalky tannins, the fruit only just escaping from the structure at the moment. Needs more time than most. Satisfyingly chewy and moreish even so. (JH)