2012 Niederhauser Hermannshohle Grosses Gewachs

When you smell the bouquet of a Dönnhoff Grosses Gewächs, arguments about old school, modernist approach, oak and spontaneous aromas seem to become superfluous. The fragrance of the Hermannshöhle excels in freshness and clarity and there seems to be a smell of mountain stream, rocks, orchards and meadows. The fruit is a little greener than that of the Dellchen, but works wonderfully with the delicate aroma of garden herbs and a mere whiff of stone dust. Gooseberry and peach flan is just a poor descriptive attempt to catch the harmony of juicy fruit and creamy texture. A filigree framework of minerality and zesty peel adds subtle nuances to an everlasting finish. (MS)