2012 Centgrafenberg Spatburgunder Grosses Gewachs

Soils are a little richer than the Hundsrück. 15-25% stems. Mostly new oak. Oak shows more on the palate than on the nose. Light ruby. Delicate red fruit, sweeter smelling than the Klingenberg. Light on the palate but persistent, tannins only just covered by the fruit. Savoury and moreish on the finish. (JH)

Medium depth, cherry red with watery salmon-pink rim. Just on the nose alone the R does not only show a perfect coordination of fruit, wood and minerality, but simply exudes the air of the finest of Indian summer days. A long list will give an idea of individual constituents, but it is how berry and orchard fruit, meadow herbs, forest floor, cigar and bonfire smoke, pepper and spices have been harnessed into a masterpiece of complexity that makes the Centgrafenberg R such an exquisite rendition of Pinot Noir. A quick sniff and spit can never bring you close to the soul of this wine. The elegant one. (MS)