2002 Volnay Santenots

Ruined by TCA – what a shame. T his vintage is a bit a favourite of mine. (JR)

Medium red, showing almost no amber. Aromas of redcurrant, licorice, mocha and spices; nothing tertiary going on here yet. Still quite youthful and firm in the mouth, even a bit tight, showing lovely energy to the berry and licorice flavors. Creamy yet weightless wine with refined tannins and very good length. Still evolving. Lafon noted that this wine closed up a year after it was bottled and remained tight until barely two years ago. "It's just starting to come back, and it will still expand," he said.

The 2002 Volnay Santenot has a lovely open, generous bouquet with vibrant red fruit: redcurrant, freshly picked raspberry and wild hedgerow – perhaps just a touch of pine cone in the background. The palate is medium-bodied with a rounded, succulent entry. It feels harmonious and luscious in the mouth, the tannins just beginning to soften after a decade in bottle. There is something quite feminine about the 2002 although it does not quite possess the complexity or nuance of the 2005. Drink 2015-2030. Tasted September 2013.