2004 Brunello di Montalcino Riserva

The 2004 Brunello di Montalcino Riserva La Storica impresses first with a mentholated freshness that perks up the senses. It blossoms in the glass with wild strawberries, sage, dusty earth and shavings of pine. Further time in the glass brings forward lifting herbal tones and hints of flint. It's dense and savory yet remarkably fresh, with a zesty core of acidity and a twang of orange citrus that elevates its tart wild berry fruits. Saline mineral tones emerge through the finish as the 2004 tapers off dry and long yet only gently tannic, leaving a balsamic tinge and nuances of sous bois to fade slowly. Just nearing its optimal drinking window, the 2004 is a total pleasure to taste.

The 2004 Brunello di Montalcino Riserva is impeccable and classy. Ripe red fruits, flowers and minerals are some of the nuances that emerge from this fresh, vibrant wine. The fruit remains incredibly youthful and pure all the way through to the finish. This is a surprisingly supple, fruit-driven style of Riserva from Biondi-Santi, and with time in the glass the reluctant bouquet finally emerges. Some of the explosiveness of the best vintages (such as 2001) is missing, but the wine nevertheless impresses for its finesse and impeccable overall balance. The 2004 Riserva looks to have a long life ahead of it, but it so harmonious that opening a bottle in its youth, while not optimal, is far from infanticide.

The 2004 Brunello di Montalcino Riserva is impeccable and classy. Ripe red fruits, flowers and minerals are some of the nuances that emerge from this fresh, vibrant wine. The fruit remains incredibly youthful and pure all the way through to the finish. This is a surprisingly supple, fruit-driven style of Riserva from Biondi-Santi, and with time in the glass the reluctant bouquet finally emerges. Some of the explosiveness of the best vintages (such as 2001) is missing, but the wine nevertheless impresses for its finesse and impeccable overall balance. The 2004 Riserva looks to have a long life ahead of it, but it is so harmonious that opening a bottle in its youth, while not optimal, is far from infanticide. Anticipated maturity: 2014-2034. I was deeply impressed with the wines I tasted from Biondi-Santi this year. Of course, Biondi-Santi is the estate that put Brunello di Montalcino on the map, so it is nice to see this historic property doing so well. These remain some of the most rigorous, age-worthy Brunellos readers will come across. Traditional vinification and aging in large, neutral casks are the rule. Ideally the wines are best left in the cellar for at least a decade after release, but readers will have a very hard time exercising such restraint here. These are magnificent Brunellos. Importer: Shaw-Ross, Miramar, FL; tel. (954) 430-5020