2006 Morey St Denis

Full bottle 1,340 g. Transparent ruby shading to a pale rim. Vegy nose with a hint of orange zest. Dry but not drying finish, with lots of vivacity. Whistle-clean; very pure indeed. This wine, lighter than expected, gained fruit and charm over 24 hours after opening – though no longer. It was served alongside Joseph Swan, Cuvée de Trois of the same vintage and divided opinion at the table – though definitely outlasted it 24 hours later. (JR)

The Roumier 2006 Morey-St.-Denis Clos de la Bussiere offers ripe plum and black raspberry, brown spices, and hints of game on the nose; offers a strikingly and flatteringly silken texture and a clearer, deep meatiness than the gamy aromatic suggestion intimated; and finishes with carnal and saline savor; subtle invigoration of fruit skin tartness; and an almost airy sense of lift and effortless extension. This should be a delight over the next half dozen years. Rigorous triage - along with Christophe Roumier's seemingly intuitive sense for the limits and potential of the vintage - have resulted in a set of 2006s here that are youthfully generous, but in the best instances will be well worth cellaring. The fermentative regimen and elevage (including no racking until assemblage, to maximize contact with lees convey both fat and structure; yet early bottling to preserve fruit) were tailored to the vintage, whereas the regimen of new wood was little changed from other recent years, meaning around one-third for the premier crus. Stems were selectively included, up to something over one-third in the grand crus. I tasted these wines from barrel at 14 months and again from bottle at 18, and they had in most instances both gained textural allure as well as structure and refined their flavors, clearly demonstrating the success of Roumier's strategy. Importer: Diageo Chateau and Estate Wines Company, New York, NY; tel. (212) 419-1400

Light cherry red. Not much nose and then gentle fluid bitter cherry fruit on the palate. Very light finish. Pretty enough but not very serious. (JR)