1988 Roc de Cambes

Impériale. Gosh this is impressive! Both for its appellation (although it has long ago proved its exceptional status in that context) and for the fact that this was the debut vintage of François Mitjavile's second property (after Tertre Roteboeuf). If Certan de May 1988 had not been served with it, I think everyone would have been raving about the Roc. Absolutely in its prime, superbly and subtly evolved with good freshness and balance but no awkward tannins and no excess acidity. Bravissimo! (JR)