2011 Vosne Romanee Les Hautes Maizieres

(12.3% potential alcohol, chaptalized to 12.8%): Aromas of dark fruits, menthol and licorice. At once sweet and juicy in the mouth, with good minerality and cool floral lift giving tension to the dark fruit flavors. No shortage of fruit intensity or cut here, but the wine's firm spine of tannins calls for a few years of patience.

(from 60+-year-old vines): Blacker fruits, spices and lavender on the nose, plus suggestions of pine cone and garrigue. Sweeter and more voluminous than the Combe Brulee, offering enticing dark berry and saline flavors. Firms up on the rather virile back end, finishing dry and saline, with solid tannins and lingering mineral perfume. This wine started out a bit drab, noted Clavelier, but has been taking on precision and a more crystalline minerality with time in barrel.