2004 Urziger Wurzgarten Auslese (1 Star)

The “three star” 2004 Urziger Wurzgarten Riesling Auslese*** comes largely from beneath the Urzig sundial near the water’s edge. A gauze-like overlay of fermentative aromas clears to reveal scents of strawberry jam, green tea, and candied lemon. In the mouth this exhibits a clarity and lift close to that of the “one star”, but allied to yet more richness, an ennobled botrytis dimension of fruit, and an invigorating saltiness that supplies a lovely and striking counterpoint to the wine’s honeyed sweetness. There is plenty of fresh fruit juiciness as well as stony depth amid such far-gone richness, and the finish reaches out with salt-encrusted tentacles of citrus even as it drips honey. Christoffel and I both suspect that this already amazing wine will gain in clarity and poise with a few years in bottle, and it certainly could be successfully cellared for three or four decades. Importer: Terry Theise Estate Selections, imported by Michael Skurnik Wines, Inc., Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300