1962 Unico

The 1960s was my favorite decade for Único, especially the even-numbered vintages, and it was great to taste the 1960, 1962, 1968 and 1970 in what was without a doubt the finest flight of the tasting. The 1962 Único, produced with Tinto Fino with 20% Cabernet Sauvignon and 10% Merlot and bottled at 13.5% alcohol, was in different oak containers until March 1980 when it was bottled. In the past, the élevage in wood was much longer. 87,600 bottles and 2,200 magnums produced. Artwork by Vega Ossorio.

70% Tinto Fino, 20% Cabernet Sauvignon, 10% Merlot. ‘This harvest remained in the fermentation tank for the first year. In September 1963 it was placed in large, 20,000-litre wooden casks, where it remained for the following 3 years, with six-monthly rackings. In August 1966 it was transferred to smaller 700-litre casks, where it remained until August 1968 when it was transferred to old 215-litre casks were it stayed, with annual rackings, until March 1980, the month in which it was bottled.’ 87,600 bottles and 2,200 magnums. From magnum. Very slightly cloudy dark ruby. Heady, rather bordelais nose. A little bit old; fruit fading. But there is impressive sweetness here. Well done them for showing it anyway. It certainly isn’t shot to pieces – just a bit drying out on the finish but with more vigour than most bordeaux 1962s. (JR)

Tasted over dinner in July 2009.