1998 Hattenheimer Wisselbrunnen Auslese

Smoky, bready, spiritous, faintly rancid yet utterly alluring botrytis aroma which reminds me of the noble 1971s here. As overpowering as is the intensity of aroma, the wine comes onto the palate with a juicy, light touch. Creamy and rich without any sense of heaviness or opacity. Flavors of sugared plum, white raisin, honey, apple jelly and almond paste. The delicate finish of honey, marzipan and pear is very primary and somewhat simple, but also very long. "In ten years," says Kesseler, "this will still be like fruit juice. Then, slowly, it will become wine."