1997 Oberhauser Brucke Eiswein

Like Geiben at Karlsmühle, Dönnhoff caught a lucky break early on and was able to harvest genuine Eiswein in November. Whiffs of woodsmoke, cooked mushroom, grapefruit, and an ominous hint of volatile esters that tweak your nose by way of warning that you are about to be sucked into a veritable vortex of rushing flavors. In fact, it feels like I can smell this in the back of my neck! Quince, redcurrant, distilled cherry, honey-the flavors are not dissimilar to those in the Auslese, only more intense and fast‑rushing. Strong salt and iodine notes join with fiery distilled fruits in a finish that takes your breath away.