2010 Volnay Caillerets

Good medium red. Discreet aromas of black fruits and violet. The most precise and vibrant 2010 to this point, with lovely integrated acids and tannins giving shape to the wine's primary dark fruit flavors and extending the finish. Wonderfully subtle and elegant Volnay with a strong impression of dusty extract. "This will be good in five or six years but will also last well," says Michel Lafarge.

The 2010 Volnay Les Caillerets fleshes out beautifully in all directions. It is one of the most textured, deep and imposing wines in this lineup. Clean veins of minerality form the backbone for an expressive core of dark red cherries, flowers, mint and licorice. The combination of depth in the fruit and nuance is absolutely gorgeous. A long, persistent finish bodes very well for the future, but patience will be the key. Anticipated maturity: 2020-2030. Yields were down 40% in 2010 at Lafarge. According to Frederic Lafarge, a superb September saved a year marked by damp, cold weather during the flowering and later throughout the summer. On the positive side, the low yields per plant allowed the grapes to achieve full phenolic ripeness. The 2010s were racked in mid-August 2011 and were aging on their fine lees when I tasted them from barrel in November 2011. As pretty as the 2010s are, today I have a slight preference for the 2009s. That said, the 2010s are terrific, and many of the wines are at or near the top of their respective peer groups. A Becky Wasserman Selection, Le Serbet, various American importers, including: Martin Scott Wines, Little Neck, NY; tel. (516) 327-0808; Veritas Imports, Beverly Hills, CA; tel. (310) 205-3803; Toepfer Imports LLC, CO; tel. (303) 818-7640

Quite introvert, fresh and lightly animal. Very marked acidity. Still youthful with a grainy texture. Delicate. Resonant finish. Needs time to soften. (JR)