2002 Volnay Caillerets
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Tasting notes
Deep red. Medicinal black cherry, mint and a hint of older barrel on the nose. Round and ripe, with a note of candied cherry. Subtly intense but offers less early sweetness and inner-mouth perfume than the Chateau des Ducs. Finishes with big, rich, dusty tannin that avoid dryness. Lafarge bought these vines in 2000 and says that the transition to biodynamic farming has been more difficult in this parcel. "But now it's starting to resemble my other wines," says Lafarge, "and getting more Caillerets character." I rather like this. (I also tasted a fairly large-scaled but somewhat sullen and tough Clos des Chenes from a 375-ml. bottle that is probably not representative of this wine.)
Critic scores
Stephen Tanzer, Vinous
Stephen Tanzer, Vinous
More reviews and scores
Surprisingly, given my past proclivities, my favorite of Lafarge’s efforts in this vintage was the 2002 Volnay Caillerets. Displaying exceptional depth, definition, and elegance, it broadens on the palate to reveal sappy red fruits and plums. Medium-bodied, this gorgeously nuanced wine also displays a lengthy, ripe, fruit-filled finish. Projected maturity: 2007-2017. A Becky Wasserman Selection / Le Serbet; French Fax: 011-33-3-80-24-29-70, various American importers
Good medium red. Aromatic, soil-inflected nose combines redcurrant, plum, leather and spices. Fat and spicy in the mouth, with slightly autumnal notes of leather and smoke. Not quite as delineated or gripping as the best 2002s at this address. But finishes juicy and persistent.