2009 Pfalz Spatburgunder Sankt Paul Grosses Gewachs

I tasted the Sankt Paul on two different occasions with slightly different results, which just goes to show how breathing can affect not only the nerves of humans but also those of wines. At least the appearance was consistent, a fairly deep plummy red with purplish rim. The nose reflects mainly wood at this stage, always attractive, smoky, nutty and roasted. Expertly executed toasting means that despite the pronounced expression of oak you never get the charred and burnt taste that can ruin the best of fruit, and hiding the iron tannic grip under a velvety texture also leaves plenty of room for a wealth of ripe and sweet cherry flavours to emerge. It may all be about raw power at this infant stage, but if substance and concentration are anything to go by, this beast will develop into a beauty. (MS)