2009 Felsenturmchen Grosses Gewachs Trocken

Donnhoff's 2009 Schlossbockelheimer Felsenberg Riesling Grosses Gewachs originates in the distinctive, cool, stony so-called Felsenturmchen portion of its Einzellage. (That name continues to appear on Donnhoff's price list, but not his label.) Strawberry, rhubarb, and mint in the nose anticipate a tartly-refreshing and coolly pungent palate that grips with striking intensity. Lemon and grapefruit add to the bright finishing juiciness while an aura of crushed stone adds further persistence, albeit of a slightly austere sort. While I don't find it in any way objectionable, I do find this Riesling's 13% alcohol believable, whereas that level is scarcely to be believed in the case of its two Grosses Gewachs siblings. "This year you have a possibility you might enjoy three times in a decade," insists Donnhoff, "to directly compare these three Grosse Gewachse with each having the chance to project its optimal potential beauty."I personally can't perceive comparable potential in this Felsenturmchen - so perhaps I'm missing something - and I'd be inclined to savor it over the next 6-8 years. "In a great vintage with good weather this prolonged," remarks Helmut Donnhoff of 2009, only half in humor, "the only time limit to harvest is that set by the wild boar." And most of the excitement here this year - including the remarkable range of Spatlesen and the botrytis selections - was generated from a single week's picking in early November. "It's a year of the naked wine," adds Donnhoff, pointing to what he perceives as the stark portrayal of vineyard typicity that runs through his entire 2009 collection. His recent arrangement with the new Gut Hermannsberg (whose origins and inaugural vintage are canvassed elsewhere in this report) has taken Schlossbockelheimer Kupfergrube out of Helmut Donnhoff's line-up, while he has roughly doubled the surface area in the Hermannshohle under his control (to nearly 10 acres, or roughly half the Einzellage). The suggested retail prices I received from Donnhoff's importer represented significant price reductions vis-a-vis the last two years - and prices on the estate's private customer list have remained virtually unchanged for several years - adding yet another reason to seek them out. "I want to offer my customers good value," remarks Donnhoff with, in my view, considerable understatement, "and I'm proud of the fact that nobody in the trade who has bought from me has lost money reselling my wine." Terry Theise Estate Selections, imported by Michael Skurnik Wines, Inc., Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300