2009 Chambertin Clos de Beze
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Tasting notes
Bright, deep red-ruby. Deeply pitched but very fresh nose combines blueberry, blackberry, violet, licorice, espresso, minerals and truffley underbrush. Tight on the palate but already displays brilliant purity, focus and verve; lovely lift to the flavors of black fruits, flowers and chocolatey torrefaction. A saline quality contributes to the wine's chewiness of texture. Finishes with mouth-saturating flavor, firm tannins and great cut and balance. Still an infant and destined for a glorious evolution in bottle over the next couple decades.
Critic scores
Stephen Tanzer, Vinous
Stephen Tanzer, Vinous
More reviews and scores
(Bernstein's new cuvee in 2009, consisting of four barrels from old vines in the high part of the cru, on the Mazis side) Deep ruby-red. Extremely pure and subtle aromas and flavors of blueberry, pungent five-spice powder, noble white pepper, sexy underbrush and caramel. Lush on entry but with no easy sweetness showing today. A wine of uncanny energy and sappiness, still an infant today but displaying great harmony and elegance for such intensity of flavor. The gripping, palate-staining finish simply does not want to stop. This should be a cellar treasure.
An elegant, pure and spicy nose offers superb complexity with only a trace of wood in sight. The rich, intense and intensely mineral-driven big but classy flavors are blessed with generous amounts of dry extract on the dusty, palate staining and hugely long finish. This is quite an interesting wine, not only for the obvious quality but also because the length is quite sneaky in the sense that it appears to have finished and then it suddenly reappears. This is also finer and more subtle than the Mazis if perhaps not quite as powerful and I like the integrated feel to the very firm tannins as this will require the better part of 20 years to fully mature. *Don't miss!*
New for this year. Dark and rich purple. Succulent but introvert. Lots of juicy fruit that has, most agreeably, eaten up the new oak character. Really quite juicy. I could so easily imagine this with roast game – grouse, say! Should settle down and become rather an exciting, complex bottle. 18/20 points
About the producer
Olivier Bernstein is among the most successful producers in Burgundy, setting the bar high for the growing number of micro-négociants in the region by producing wines that compete with those of the Côte d’Or’s finest domaines.