1999 Le Montrachet

This is more evolved and certainly more expressive than the 2000 Montrachet with subtly oaky aromas of mature citrus fruit and dried flowers that give way to powerful and impressively scaled if not necessarily dense flavors that do deliver impressive purity on the marvelously long finish that is supported by a pronounced minerality and solid acid structure. To be sure, this is a perfectly good example of the appellation but it will not go down as one of the domaine's all time best efforts. For my taste, this is drinking well now and while it will certainly hold for many years to come, I don't believe that there is any futher improvement to be had.

Tasting the wines in this order meant that the Domaine Leflaive wine in particular, the first of the absolutely top rank perhaps, absolutely jumped out of the glass. I wondered whether this was an effect of the biodynamic viticulture which has been employed in this vineyard for the last few years. It just seemed so much more concentrated and lively than the wines that preceded it. Already quite a deep gold, it was big, dense, full-flavoured but also managed an exciting tension. Very youthful indeed, the wine already promises powerful layers of flavour. It's definitely dry rather than sweet and is still distinctly chewy but it reverberates on the palate for ages after swallowing or, in my regretful case as a driver, spitting. (D Lafon was heard to say proudly 'I've never spat a Montrachet in my life and I never will.') My favourite on the night. (JR)