2002 Sarget de Gruaud Larose

57% Cabernet Sauvignon, 30% Merlot, 10% Cabernet Franc, 3% Petit Verdot. The grapes are harvested by hand and then hand-sorted before undergoing a cold soak prior to temperature-controlled fermentation in a combination of wooden and concrete vats with pumping over taking place twice a day. Malolactic fermentation takes place for up to a third of the vintage in barrel. Up to 50% of the oak is coming from the Alliers and Nevers forests. The wine spends up to 18 months in barrel. 55 stores. Lightly toasty, evolved if undramatic nose. But a lack of freshness. It’s fine and there is real fruit here – oak well judged – but I couldn’t really advise people it’s great value. (JR)

Good deep crimson. But with a pale rim. A note on the nose reminiscent of the 1997 – buckwheat perhaps? Then again broad and perhaps surprisingly rich on the palate. Quite marked tannin but good intensity. Surely this is a steal? Just finishes a little harshly. (JR)