2007 Niederhauser Hermannshohle Auslese

Donnhoff's 2007 Niederhauser Hermannshohle Riesling Auslese leads with an unusually floral aromatic display, and the palate impression is so honeyed you'd think it were Bienenauslese (selected by bees). There is remarkable density here, with site-typical layering of flowers, orchard fruits, citrus, berries, along with smoky, peat-like, stony mineral suggestions that become more prominent as the wine takes on air. The finish is almost luxuriantly rich by Hermannshohle standards. But I am sure this wine will find more to say with time and not fall silent for 30 years or more. While Donnhoff returned to his usual humility in characterizing the latest vintage - following an atypically unabashed outbreak of enthusiasm in describing his indeed amazing collection of 2006s - it is clear that the 2007s delight him in a similar way, as outstanding representations of their respective sites at Spatlese ripeness. (Note, incidentally, that the Pradikat has been removed from any dry wines here, in keeping with a new convention of the Nahe branch of the VDP growers- association.) -Within that range of ripeness,- he submits, -one best-recognizes the site. Here you have nothing exaggerated, but instead a normal harvest, meaning a documentation of the vineyards, each a different face on the landscape. They all went to the same school and had the same opportunities- he adds, gesturing to the long row of Spatlesen on the tasting table, and alluding to his own role as well as the vintage-s. -It was a bit intimidating this year at harvest,- he added, -because when the grapes are perfect, you can only make mistakes.- I had the rare fortune to taste this collection twice, and like so many 2007s (a comment that even more growers made about their 2008s) the wines were much more impressive in September than in Spring. A 2007 Hermannshohle Trockenbeerenauslese, by the way, is still trying to become wine after two years. Terry Theise Estate Selections, imported by Michael Skurnik Wines, Inc., Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300