1994 Yquem
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Tasting notes
The 1994 Yquem, a vintage that sacraligiously I have not tasted before, was upended at the last furlong by two weeks of rain on the eve of picking. The wine comes from continuous harvest between October 5 and 14. It has a clear amber hue with green tints on the rim. The bouquet is better than expected given the vintage, with scents of barley sugar, Seville orange marmalade and fig, not complex or offering scintillating delineation, yet focused. However, it does begin lacking some vigour with continued aeration. The palate is well balanced with a tangy, marmalade-tinged entry and fresh acidity. Where this Yquem stumbles and its score is downgraded is in its second half, which feels curt and abrupt, missing unctuousity. This is a little dry after three decades. Given the perfect provenance, I suggest bottles of 1994 should be drunk over the next decade, as it will not improve. 122 g/l residual sugar. Tasted at the château.
Critic scores
Average Score
Wine Spectator
The Wine Advocate
More reviews and scores
An unusually disappointing bottle of Yquem. Michael Broadbent in his Vintage Wine notes the heavy rain in September which made it 'a battle between botrytis on the one hand and ruination on the other'. There wasn't much sign of botrytis on the nose of this deep-orange wine and there could even have been some ignoble rot. Nor was the wine especially sweet. I don't remember tasting any weaker Yquem, although I see my note on the 1993 is not much more enthusiastic. The poor Sauternais had a terrible run of vintages from 1991 to 1994 inclusive. (JR)
A very good but not outstanding Yquem. Yellow-gold color. Intense aromas of petrol, spice and honey, with dried apricot. Full-bodied, very sweet, with a green apple and honey character. petrol character comes through on the finish. Better with age. Best after 2005. James Suckling, winespectator.com
About the producer
The undisputed finest sweet wine in the world, Château d'Yquem is the only Premier Cru Supérieur estate in Sauternes, classified in 1855. With a long history stretching back to the Middle Ages, the château is entwined with that of the Lur-Saluces family – who remain involved today.