1979 Yquem
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Tasting notes
The 1979 Yquem is a vintage I had not encountered for many years. It was a late harvest that commenced on October 15, and botrytis took a long time to develop, the picking not finishing until November 29. Yields were very low. This has a backward nose with scents of dried honey, barley sugar and an adhesive note. The palate is better than the aromatics—a dainty Yquem, fresh and lively with a keen thread of acidity. Light in body, it closes with a tangy, rather short finish. This is in graceful decline. Tasted at the château.
Critic scores
Robert Parker
Neal Martin
More reviews and scores
The 1979 Yquem came from a small cache of half-bottles I acquired for "sixpence" many moons ago. It is a pretty decent Sauternes for the vintage, featuring plenty of rich apricot and quince on the nose along with emerging hints of Barsac-like barley sugar. The palate has perhaps not aged quite as well, displaying sharp acidity and less harmony than other vintages. This would pale against the 1975 or 1976, yet for an off vintage, it is commendable. Tasted from a half-bottle at home.
This is an immensely attractive Yquem, yet it seems to be missing something. Light golden, with Yquem's typically oaky, spicy, buttery, ripe bouquet, it is only slightly more reserved than usual. On the palate, this full-bodied wine is intense and well balanced, but falls just a trifle short in the finish. The 1979 Yquem is not as powerful or as rich as this wine can be in the top vintages. Only 40% of the crop was retained. Anticipated maturity: Now-2020. Last tasted, 12/90.
About the producer
The undisputed finest sweet wine in the world, Château d'Yquem is the only Premier Cru Supérieur estate in Sauternes, classified in 1855. With a long history stretching back to the Middle Ages, the château is entwined with that of the Lur-Saluces family – who remain involved today.