1988 Ruchottes Chambertin
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Tasting notes
The 1988 Ruchottes-Chambertin Clos des Ruchottes Grand Cru shows considerable degradation in colour. The bouquet is autumnal, with vestiges of red cherries and tangible marine and moorland scents, and background orange pith. The palate is medium-bodied and has a lilting quality, but there is grip here, quite chalky in texture and obviously with less flesh than either the 1985 or 1990, so you have to accept its brittle finish. Yet there is vigour and poise from start to finish, conveying a sense of class and sophistication. Tasted at the Rousseau Ruchottes vertical in September 2013.
Critic scores
Neal Martin
Allen Meadows, Burghound
More reviews and scores
I have a lot of time for Charles Rousseau’s 1988s, even if they have become prohibitively expensive in recent years. The Ruchottes-Chambertin has a mature hue with a wide degraded tawny rim. It has a mellow, decayed, rather autumnal bouquet with light red cherry and estuarine aromas, hints of orange blossom emerging with time. The palate is medium-bodied with a gentle but insistent grip. Nice and compact like many 1988s, the tannins feel chalkier than the 1985 or 1990, but the brittle finish has a pleasing weightlessness that carries it through. This is understated but still a class act. Drink now-2030. Tasted September 2013.
About the producer

Based in Gevrey-Chambertin, Domaine Armand Rousseau is one of Burgundy’s most famous estates. Revered for making unearthly expressions of Pinot Noir, the estate’s wines are some of the most collectable in the world.