NV Graham 40 YO Tawny
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Tasting notes
We were told that some of the spirits companies are 'desperate' for the Symingtons' barrels, some of which are more than 80 years old. (They are the last port shipper to have their own cooper, including two apprentices.) We were also told that of a wine like this, 50% will have evaporated during ageing. This was a blend from the 1980s that was set aside by Peter Symington. A deeper fox red but lighter nose than the 2001 Single Harvest. Edgy mix of acidity and alcohol with a note of confit lemons, treacle/molasses and a hint of bitterness. Quite a dry finish for a port but all in all an intriguing wine. (JR)
Critic scores
Richard Hemming MW, jancisrobinson.com
Jancis Robinson MW
More reviews and scores
A new blend, based on Graham's 1982 Colheita, which was mostly bottled as a vintage-dated tawny. Mid tawny. Very open, pouring forth orange peel and caramelised apricots. Lifted marmalade. On the palate, that tart citrus intensity is mouth-watering and powerful. Great freshness thanks to the sour-orange intensity. Reminds me a little of Cointreau. Incredible intensity and that saltiness you get on some really old sherries. So moreish. Opens up in the glass to reveal even more fragrance: lavender and wild grasses. (JH)
RS 122 g/l. No primary fruit left, this has entirely desiccated character with prominent acidity and incredible concentration. Dense, thick, with a strong medicinal note on the finish. It's impressive, and clearly showing the extra age, but as a drinking experience I prefer the 30 or 20 Year Old versions. (RH)
Mid tawny colour. Intense with dried fruit, toasted nuts and smoky, subtle spices. The palate is pithy and smoky, with deep caramelised notes, old wood and dried figs coming through. Slightly warming but with high intensity, this is a deep, powerful wine that could be served as a digestif. (TP)