2004 Kiedricher Grafenberg Spatlese

When we come to the 2004 Kiedricher Grafenberg Spatlese, we are in a different realm from any of the wines that preceded it. Indeed, this not only stands comparison to several of the best Grafenberg Spatlesen of the Wilhelm Weil era, but strikes me as the single best Grafenberg Spatlese thus far. The nose is assaulted by a heady mixture of musky florality, brine and iodine minerality, white raisin, and orchard fruits ripe almost to the point of over-the-top decadence. On the palate, these flowers, yellow plum, quince, and white peach seethe with flavor, their being lashed to a formidable mineral base seemingly the only thing that restrains their eruption. The finish of this Riesling displays tremendous drive, nerve and verve as well Auslese-like richness of fruit, honey, and floral essences that go on and on. This gloriously decadent drink can be expected to age to marvelous additional complexity over at least a 25-year period. With just over a thousand cases produced, shame on any Riesling lovers who do not make the necessary effort to taste it for themselves! Wilhelm Weil insists that his 2004s are more consistently ripe than were his 2001s, since the accumulation of sugars this year was more gradual and there was not the extreme contrast presented by a cool, rainy September and a warm October of 2001. “Two thousand four, after all,” he says, “displays the classic virtues we theoretically ascribe to Riesling: long ripening, late harvest, and conditions on the climatic margins.” I found considerable qualitative variation this year, though, on account of factors other than sheer ripeness. That said, the outstanding 2004 Weil Rieslings – and these are in the clear majority – include some breathtaking successes. Furthermore, the quantities behind some of the most exciting of these are far larger than in any previous vintages of this estate. Imported by Rudi Wiest, Cellars International, Carlsbad, CA; tel. (800) 596-9463