| Our first trip to Italy began at a damp and foggy Turin airport last Thursday morning. We should not have been surprised, with the main grape of this Barolo dominated region named Nebbiolo, after the Italian nebbia, meaning fog. We herded our smaller than expected group of 9 bleary-eyed customers, some having arrived early, others stuck at the wrong end of a transfer, and we boarded our bus to the first appointment of the day, both a tasting and a lunch. |
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| Day One |
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| Despite only being around since 1977, the Rivetti family has built one of the largest wineries in Piemonte. Producing over 450,000 bottles a year and still finding time to gain a 3* rating in the Gambero Rosso Guide to Italian Wines, La Spinetta is one of only two wineries to do so and only beaten to the top by Gaja. With several cellars and winemaking facilities in the area, a quick glance at the barrels on the ground floor led our guests up to the first floor dining area, over looking the vineyards with the last of their leaves. Interesting fact: leaves go red if of the Nebbiolo variety, and yellow if Barbera. We also learnt that between February and November, the Piemonte vineyards are effectively run by Macedonian workers, a tradition that has been running for over 25 years.  The lunch, laid on by Manuela Rivetti’s aunt as Manuela herself (left) talked us through the bottled offerings in perfect English, was a fabulous way to start our trip. Various bowls offered vegetables, fresh bread, oils, steak tartar Italian style, breaded chicken and endless other dishes. The flavours were simple yet delicious and made to complement the wines, the highlights of which were:
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| | 2006 Lidia Chardonnay
"This international wine started off with a clean nose, citrus hints and minerals, and the impression that a bit more age could add tropical hints. There is butter on the palate, with good length and an almost Burgundian quality." FINE+RARE | |
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| | 2007 Pin (Barbera: Nebbiolo blend)
"This wine has a more mature nose over the younger Barbera wines, with an obvious oak influence. Firm tannins and fresh sour cherries come out on the palate, with great length and extremely drinkable." FINE+RARE | |
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| | 2000 Campe Barolo
"An orange tinge to the wine is the first hint at its age, and the nose is powerful with jammier fruits. Despite these characteristics, the palate is very smooth, fresh and still has a firm tannic grip that is yet to soften. This wine has years left on it before its peak." FINE+RARE | |
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|  After this trip, and the group count up to 12 having picked up those who arrived a day early, we headed to Neive to meet our last two customers and Signor Lavagna, wine maker at Bruno Giacosa. With our tour guide Silvia translating, we were shown around the facility, admiring the large casks (shown here) that hold a whopping 14,000 bottles. This winery has also distinguished itself by Gambero Rosso’s standards and received the title of Winery of the Year 2010. They have been promoting Piemontese wines for over half a century and their traditional elegant wines were practically calling us to the tasting room. Here in Piemonte, they pour a dribble of the wine to be tasted into each glass and swirl, to ensure there are no corrupting notes, a great idea if a little time consuming!
 We certainly agreed with eRobertParker when it came to scores, the 2005 Barolo Le Rocche del Falletto receiving 96+ from Galloni and a firm favourite with our customers. The Barbaresco is not far behind with 95 points, and if you can get your hands on the 2000 vintage of Rocche del Falletto - which even Giacosa is out of - this was described by Suckling as the Romanee-Conti of Barolo! These were our favourites with our only comment being that it seemed criminal to drink these so young:
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| | 2009 Roero Arneis
"This local white grape has a very clean citrus driven nose with unripe melon, minerals and a hint of eraser rubbings. The palate is then a lovely surprise because although it follows the nose’s fruit sorbet qualities, it is more complex with a hint of white chocolate. Tasty." FINE+RARE | |
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| | 2005 Barbaresco Asili
"We also tried 2007, but the extra two years of age gives a really rich, ripe nose with lots of berries, some darker fruit and floral hints too. The fruit on the palate, and there is plenty of it, is turning slightly jammy with hints of liquorice and game however the firm tannins leave your palate refreshed. This is not one to age, it is approachable now, a rarity amongst Piemonte wines." FINE+RARE | |
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| | 2005 Barolo Le Rocche Del Falleto
"Chocolate comes through the game and leather notes on the nose, and opens onto a jammy, black fruit palate with further gamey notes. There is a firm tannic grip and it is very long, but also very dry and less refreshing than some of the other, younger wines. Oddly, the 2003 vintage seems to be less mature, with a mid to back palate closed down and not due to peak for years to come." FINE+RARE | |
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| As dusk fell we headed to our accommodation, Albergo Cantine Ascheri, run by the winemaking family, Ascheri. This modern 4* hotel sits directly above the Ascheri cellars where wines are made, matured and bottled; it was here that, after a quick break, we joined winemaker Giuliano to start our evening. The Ascheri family are both traditional and innovative; they are experimenting with international varieties such as syrah and viognier, but they are doing this strictly within certain vineyards and studying the results, not using these as a their signature wines. I think it only suitable to share our tasting notes from the small vertical tasting that was put on: |
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| | 2001 Barolo Sorano
"Slightly odd sherry notes on the nose with mocha, leather, game and violets to boot. The palate is, however, well integrated with spice and black flavours dominating. Very full, very long and very impressive legs on this." FINE+RARE | |
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| | 1999 Barolo Sorano
"Stewed fruit, oxidised apricots, tobacco, violets, milk chocolate and Indian spice, quite a combination to start with on the nose. The fruit is not as dominant here as the 2001, with tertiary notes winning out including chocolate and balsamic hints. This is still a full, firm, long wine." FINE+RARE | |
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| | 1996 Barolo Sorano
"Wet fur and truffles on the nose do not give the most attractive start, however the firm palate with stewed fruits does not reflect these traits. Despite only being 1996, and should be reaching its peak, this may have missed the boat. Perhaps it needed more evolution time in glass." FINE+RARE | |
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We then moved onto the Osteria Murivecchi, run by Matteo’s sister, Maria Teresa. Our meal was filled with local delights such as wild boar and pasta, and poached pears. These were accompanied by further Ascheri wines, and Giuliano (left), who nobly fielded the questions put to him. A further wine of note was:
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| | 1999 Barolo Coste & Bricco
"Although the nose was quite simple compared to the variety of flavours encountered on the Sorano, this Barolo seemed influenced by Bordeaux, with cassis notes on the palate and a medium body. There was also a less obvious tannic grip here, but as we were nine wines in at this point in there are no further notes!" FINE+RARE | |
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| Day Two |
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| Day two, and a quick glance out the window assured us that the weather was giving its blessing to our busiest day of visits, and the view from our hotel was a sight to behold. In the background you can see the two towers of Bra, from the tradition that the bigger your tower, the richer you were. Breakfast included Salsiccia di Bra Crudo, a local sausage made from veal that we would definitely recommend if visiting the area. Our first visit today was at the punishing time of 9.30, at the beautiful cellars of Luciano Sandrone.  This facility is newest we visited, though built in the traditional Piemontese farm style with the rectangular buildings surrounding a courtyard. The room we tasted in (right) was absolutely beautiful and proudly guarded by the Sandrone cat. An odd difference: Bordeaux estates love their dogs, but Piemonte is definitely the place to be a cat. Barbara, daughter of Luciano, was our host and did an excellent job, getting us through the tasting in just a one-hour session. There are too many aspects to mention here, the views, the beautiful “wine tree” that descends to the cellars, their library stock (15% of each vintage held for 8 years before release) and their story of buying their plot of land from 28 different families before their first vintage in 1994. So we will have to settle with the wine highlights:
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| | 2008 Valmaggiore Nebbiolo d’Alba
"We compared this to the 2007 vintage, and although there was no clear overall preference amongst our group, I thought that the irregular 2008 was superb. This wine was packed with pink grapefruit, both on the nose and palate, a very unusual flavour in a red wine, let alone a Nebbiolo. It was tart and also had hints of raspberries. Very unusual, also very drinkable." FINE+RARE | |
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| | 2006 Barolo Cannubi Boschis
"The first sniff is dominated by rubber shavings and new leather, but the fruit evolves quickly with air and some truffle hints come through with herbs. The palate is full, rich with lots of fruit but also some mineral aspects, a bit of spice and rounded nicely with the acidity we already have come to expect from this grape and terroir. The wine is precise, recognizable and balanced." FINE+RARE | |
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| | 1999 Barolo Le Vigne
"The fruit is ripe to the point of cloying with a steel edge and hints of liquorice. This is only the nose though as the palate is utterly fresh, great liquorice qualities and really firm tannins. This wine is much more in need of age than the 2006! It has a long way to go but fruit in abundance to facilitate its maturation." FINE+RARE | |
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|  With the tasting finished, and some beautiful long shots of the Cannubi hill taken, we boarded the bus to our second appointment with the shy Aldo, and passionate Milena, of G D Vajra.
On our arrival true to reputation, Aldo made a dash for the office, however we were delighted when he later joined our host, Sabrina, to encourage us to try the new range of wines from the recently purchased vineyard of Luigi Baudana, whose tasting notes follow. He also requested we visit the cellars, with their stained glass windows, especially as the sun had come out for us that day. Vajra were the first to try planting Riesling in Piemonte, and soon followed this with other international varieties including Pinot Noir. Here are the results: |
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| | 2006 Langhe PN Q497
"This unusual name is Vajra’s attempt to get around the laws on labeling. This is a Pinot Noir – or Pinot Nero as the Italians say – and international varieties cannot be quoted on bottles. A quiet nose with mere hints of the fruit inside, the body is full, with the fruit ripe and juicy and quite frankly, not very Italian. This wine needs more length and I think it will get this from further aging – Sabrina quoted 2012 as a drinking date." FINE+RARE | |
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| | 2006 Barolo Bricco delle Viole
"This nose is again very quiet but there is some clear red fruit wanting to come out. This wine is longer than other Barolos tasted, and firmer, with violets and a complexity to be praised, although high acidity keeps this fresh. This is definitely a food wine." FINE+RARE | |
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| | 2005 Baudana and Ceretta Barolos
"These two wines have come from a plot, and winery, recently purchased by Aldo and Milena and run by their son, and already showing results as well as promise for what is yet to come. The nose on Ceretta is closed but Baudana is complex with quite sweet stewed fruit. Baudana also has a rich palate, almost like an Amarone, with plenty of power and tannin, and they call this the masculine one. Ceretta plays to its feminine role with floral notes, but still more tannin and power than Vajra’s own offerings. These are elegant, refined, complex, and I am a fan." FINE+RARE | |
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| With nothing more than breakfast - for some - and two wineries down, we set off for sustenance at Locanda nel Borgo Antico, the Michelin starred restaurant perched at the end of a dirt track above rolling Barolo vineyards. Within this modern restaurant we were seated within the first-floor conservatory overlooking the town of Barolo, where the first iconic wine was made. The restaurant was idyllic, the food divine, but all this was second to our lovely host, Chiara Boschi of E Pira e Figli. The Boschi family took on the Pira family winery determined not to let this important local history disappear– the Pira’s made wine since the end of the 800’s – and have succeeded in creating elegant, understated, beautiful wines from their tiny 3.5 hectare plot. Her Dolcetto and Barbera which we started with showed a greater complexity than other simple fruit-driven wines, and we then moved onto her Barolos completing the tasting of her five lines. |
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| | 2005 Barolo Via Nuova
"This wine has a full nose, very open, which reminded me distinctly of a Burgundy Grand Cru. The palate is stunning, smooth, long yet very subtle with fruit peeking out from the integrated tannins and acidity." FINE+RARE | |
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| | 2006 Barolo Cannubi
"The nose was very quiet as opposed to the Via Nuova, and the palate showed very differently too with less fruit and power from the tannins. Although lovely this wine needs time to settle and show its elegance, without a doubt it will achieve the standards its older siblings have set." FINE+RARE | |
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| | 2003 Barolo Cannubi en magnum
"An orange rim gives away the age on this wine, and an exotic, chocolate and berries nose is edible in itself. The smooth, full, long wine is a repeat of the nose. I cannot praise this wine enough; buy it now." FINE+RARE | |
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|  With the wine covered it would be negligent not to mention the food, and thank all the staff for outstanding service on a limited timescale. From the amuse bouche through the poached egg and truffles (below) and after several more courses to a hazelnut chocolate moelleux. Considering the importance of food - and slow food - in the area, it is not surprising to learn of further local delicacies such as hazelnuts grown on short bushes anywhere there is space. Ferrero has a factory nearby, and as one who is not a fan of nuts, I ate ever pudding, mousse and patisserie on offer.
We waddled to the bus, with Chiara’s calls ringing in our ears to visit her at the vineyards whenever we want, and returned along the hair-raising roads to Poderi Aldo Conterno, neatly hidden behind enormous metal gates in the Monforte d’Alba commune.  Giacomo welcomed us into this historical house and announced that he did not subscribe to the Taliban regime (the so-called Traditionalists) but belonged to the generation prepared to innovate, raising cheers from our customers and comparisons with the Sunni; A controversial character indeed. His passion, however, was contagious, and our customers were very pleased that we had the time for a cellar tour. These are truly museum-like cellars with old transport casks (below) rubbing alongside the heated maturation room. We only tried three wines, but he picked these especially for us:
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| | 2006 Chardonnay Bussiador
"A pale gold colour leads onto a grapefruit nose, with hints of steel and minerals reflecting the Chablis that Giacomo Conterno holds in such high regard. It still has a whiff of game when given a minute in the glass. High acidity and green citrus is balanced against butter and vanilla notes and seems in contrast to the almost rubbery clean nose. A good effort." FINE+RARE | |
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| | 2006 Barolo Cicala
"Rich chocolate and ripe berries lead this wine to a firm and full palate with obvious raspberry and great length. The developing chocolate, fruit and tannin leads us to consider this wine as a real cellar wine, give it at least 10 years, but still fresh and alive now." FINE+RARE | |
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| | 2006 Barolo Romirasco
"Ripe fruit and some herbs start this wine off, leading to a softer palate with raspberries, black pepper and a lack of back palate that I hope will develop with age; these wines simply are not meant to be drunk on release. However, bear in mind Giacomo’s caveat: 'If you do not like the wines now, you will not like them later'." FINE+RARE | |
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| Those still standing stumbled back into the darkness – which was absolute in the middle of the Italian country side and quite a shock to the Londoners – and made the trek to our final - i.e not food-related - visit at Domenico Clerico.  On our way to the cellars, we passed a modern edifice half way to completion, and this is where we will be visiting Clerico from the middle of next year onwards. This explained the state of their current winery, as we dodged the barrels in the courtyard on the way to the tasting room. Domenico Clerico wines focus on a single vineyard concept, and have a tiny production of just 30,000 bottles per year. Domenico himself is very involved, and the dedication of both himself to the team, and they to him, is heart warming to behold. In fact, when we explained to Domenico that our translator was singing his praises, he promptly opened a bottle of Gosset champagne, invited his team to join us declaring that the new winery will be named “Domenico and Associates”!
Some very special bottles were opened to try, and they claim there has not been a bad vintage since 2006; here are our thoughts: |
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| | 1998 Barolo Pajana
"A pale orange rim gave a sign of age we had seen already elsewhere. There are tertiary leather notes on the nose but these rub along with fresh fruit. Firm tannins are smoothed with age and berries open up to our first menthol flavours of the day and balsamic notes. Very powerful, yet still so young." FINE+RARE | |
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| | 1999 Barolo Pajana
"A pale orange rim shows again. The nose was jammy and had the power of liqueur fruits, but seemed to close with a few minutes rather than open up. Plenty of berries opened up the palate along with spice and more menthol flavours. It was fresh and powerful yet has a long way to go yet." FINE+RARE | |
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| | 2001 Barolo Pajana
"The fruit seems to come second to the gamey flavours on the nose. The wine is very full bodied with less acidity than the first two, and the fruit seems denser, with more present alcohol too. All things considered, this seems harsher, which is unsurprising as the youngest wine, and in most need of maturation. I would, however, drink this before the 1998, though would cellars all three by preference." FINE+RARE | |
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| It was lovely to have a big smile from Domenico, who really appreciated our customers’ intelligent questions and obvious interest in his wines. So here is a happy Domenico with me, your author and host through this voyage.  The final leg took us into the charming town of Alba, to visit Pio Cesare’s cellars, and to have dinner with them at the Enoclub. The cellars here are a mere 300m from the river dividing the region, never flooded, and nestled amongst Roman city walls from 300BC. Despite these huge cellars, Pio Cesare say they have outgrown their space, and are looking for local expansion. The picture the left gives an idea of their “library stock”, for family only, squeezed into the back room of the cellars. I am sure only politeness stopped them bottle searching us with these temptations all around!
Various wines were tasted and surprise vintage was pulled out for us before the restaurant: |
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| | 2009 Chardonnay d’Altro
"Citrus fruits, kiwi, melon on the nose joins with minerals and seems to close down. The palate tastes a bit like the cellar at first, wood influence, a little musty and hints of sherry (oxidisation) but soon shows itself as full and rich and tastes very much older than 2009." FINE+RARE | |
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| | 1998 Barolo
"Rich tertiary notes of mocha, balsamic and truffles hide under the ripe fruit. I even went as far as writing the best nose of the trip, certainly from the older vintages we tried. There are even green notes that are still to develop. The palate is more about the developed notes, leather, game, menthol and the fruit is liqueur like. This wine is firm yet time has smoothed the tannins and great length is matched with endless length." FINE+RARE | |
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| Pio had a chance to pop his head into the tasting room and welcome us, as the fifth generation, to Pio Cesare, but could not unfortunately join us for dinner having just got off a plane from the USA. So we followed our host Jairo to the Enoclub, where we set up table in their cellar-like basement. Pio Cesare generously continued to supply the wine, and the food was a worthy match; More truffles on pasta, on pigeon, more hazelnuts in dessert, not to mentions starters, cheeses and more. Coffees were in demand just to get us from Alba to bed. One more wine to tell you about follows, but 63 wines later I’m not sure how much detail there is: |
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| | 2008 Langhe Nebbiolo
"Juicy fruit and chocolate nose, smooth body, hints of spice, oak influence, good length." FINE+RARE | |
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| Day Three |
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| Poderi Aldo Conterno |
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| Saturday saw our group head back to the airport in the lashing rain, to do some final shopping and head back to London, tired, but full, educated and satisfied. |
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| I extend my personal thanks to John Cummock for his help in organising and leading this trip.
We also raise a glass to the customers who followed us through this marathon wine trip and we hope you can join us to enjoy more wines “on location” next year in Bordeaux, Spain and more. Keep an eye on our events section. |
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