Wineries that focus too much on removing imperfections could
also lose the character and uniqueness of their produce, Louis
Jadot's head winemaker has claimed.
Speaking to Decanter, Jacques Lardiere said the Australian
approach to winemaking, which strives for technical perfection,
also runs the risk of rewarding neutrality.
"It's easy to clean up a wine, but by removing faults, unless
they're truly detrimental, you also remove its life," he told the
publication.
"I refuse to go along with it."
The veteran vintner has been with Lois Jadot for 40 years and is
due to retire at the end of 2012, to be replaced by Frederic
Barnier of chateau de Chassagne-Montrachet.
The comments come soon after Bordeaux trade body Anivin de France
suggested homogenising France's appellation system into a number of
global, "Coca-Cola"-like brands.
Although the proposals were met with hostility from many growers
in the Medoc, Anivin de France said it would ensure "a consistency
of quality" that would retain consumer loyalty all year round.