The old guard of premium wines, such as chateau d'Yquem or Haut-Brion, seem less popular with the younger generation of consumers, according to one journalist.

In a piece for Color Magazine, Trond Arne Undheim said he recently visited the vineyards of Bordeaux to speak with producers about the changing commercial landscape.

Haut-Brion manager Mr Delmas made no bones about his wine's exclusivity: "Appreciating wine is like appreciating music," he told the publication.

"You need a minimum amount of education to appreciate Chopin and Haut-Brion."

Turid Hoel Alcaras, PR manager for the first growth, added that most of the estate's visitors used to come from France, Japan or the US, but the Chinese are expected to begin arriving in scores and they are "only learning about wine".

Speaking to the Drinks Business recently, Haut-Brion owner Prince Robert of Luxembourg said Haut-Brion is the "more intellectual and less understood" of Bordeaux's first growths.